Last weekend it was our 30th wedding anniversary and to celebrate we decided to treat ourselves to a long weekend away. We flew to Da Nang in central Vietnam and then took a taxi the remaining 30km to the ancient town of Hoi An, another UNESCO World Heritage site.
We arrived at our hotel The Hoi An Silk Marina and Spa where they kindly upgraded us to one of their Villa suites which had it's own jaccuzi and little garden and had lovely view of the Thu Bon river and the nearby hills
The hotel was perfectly situated on a quiet street but within easy walking distance of the main town which we set out to explore.
The daytime temperature was between 35-38c so we walked very slowly, that meant we had time to notice the pretty streets and houses. Hoi An is a pretty town and is car free in the centre, but you still need to watch out as there are plenty of bikes and rickshaws on the streets.
The city's major site is the Japanese Covered Bridge, legend states that it was built after a series of earthquakes in Japan, a mythical monster was blamed for causing these. The monster apparently had its head in India, tail in Japan and heart in Hoi An so the bridge was built and it's stone piles drove a metaphorical sword through the monster's heart and presumably stopped the earthquakes!
Inside the bridge is a stone statue of a dog, another of two monkeys and a small temple
and outside there was an elderly lady selling a selection of toys and souvenirs
The streets were busy with hawkers selling all sorts of things; fruit, snacks, souvenirs and toys. Some hawkers sold from their bicycles
some displayed their goods on the pavement
some used push carts
and many had baskets suspended from a pole and carried on the shoulder
In the evening the town centre looked even more attractive as the lanterns dangling from the shop facades light up.
This lady was preparing and selling her food from her small boat
Hoi An is also famous for it's numerous tailors who quickly make made to measure clothes, sometimes even overnight and knowing this I had brought along one of my favourite dresses now very old and almost threadbare, which I was hoping to get copied. So the following morning we crossed the bridge again and set off for a tailor that a friend had recommended (but I noticed was in the guide book as a well know tailors)
Crossing the bridge I noticed again how the local women generally cover their skin completely to avoid their skin darkening. In spite of the heat many even wear face masks, long sleeves, gloves and socks so not an inch of flesh is exposed.
In Yaly tailors I was swiftly appointed Bella, who would be my assistant during the whole process. She gave me style books with different clothes options, showed me template dresses and blouses, carefully looked at my dress for copying and then measured me
She then guided me though choosing the material, there was a bewildering choice of silks and linens but after what I though was a pretty short time (although Papa T might not agree) the choosing was done and I had ordered 3 blouses, 1 skirt and a copy of my dress. I went away with an appointment for the next day for my 'first fitting' and realised that Bella was a rather good saleswoman as I only intended to get 1 dress!
The rest of the day we spent exploring more of the town and its pretty temples and wooden fronted shop houses
and using the hotel bicycles we could travel a little further and came across the main market
which sells everything one could every possibly need
and the freshest looking fruit and veg you could ask for
That evening we watched the sun set from our hotel top floor (only 4th) before heading out for a delicious supper at a nearby restaurant, Mango Mango
In many parts of Asia the motorbike or moped is the main transport option and a few times we had contemplated renting one but as I have an inherent fear of them we've never actually done it. Here in Hoi An the roads seemed quieter, reasonably flat and literally everyone, even elderly ladies were riding motorbikes so when Neil told me that he had rented a motorbike from the chap in the store next door whilst I was having my 'dress fitting' at the tailors I agreed to be his passenger
we put on our helmets and set off, very slowly at first but as confidence built we were soon out on the open road and discovering the lovely countryside around Hoi An
through villages
through Nipa palm plantations, the huge fronds are dried and used for thatching roofs and making baskets
maybe next time I'll have go on my own instead of just posing on the bike!
We headed for the coast and stopped at a little place somewhere between Cui Dai and An Bang beach. At a tiny cafe we were welcomed and shown to a shady rest area overlooking the beach and Cham Islands. Here we enjoyed a tasty Banh Mi (a Vietnames baguette type sandwich)
and watched this fisherman pulling in his nets in his 'basket boat'
Having spent a hot but very enjoyable few hours motoring around we safely returned the motor bike and headed out for our last evenings meal, on the way seeing another lovely sunset
The following morning there was time for one last bike ride this time over the small metal bridge to the nearby island of Cam Kim where I had another glimpse into the local way of life
this lovely chap was very happy for me to take his photo as he harvested the chillies
This old looking house seemed uninhabited
Coconut husks were laid out to dry on either side of this small temple
view across the rice paddy
Buffaloes keeping cool after their morning's work
There was also time for one last massage, at the equivalent of only $15 for a one hour full body massage both Papa T and I had been enjoying daily massages. When we said goodbye the two lovely young masseuses gave us both a little woven bag as a gift and waved us off, we had been good customers over the previous 4 days but we both agreed that all the Vietnamese people we had met on this trip had been so friendly, helpful and just delightful and we were leaving with many happy memories and of course I also had my new tailor made clothes to take home
Below is my anniversary card, I love the happy faces and wonder if we may soon start looking like this couple!