Thursday, 12 October 2017

Sri Lanka 3- Trincomalee

The following morning we checked out of our hotel as we were driving to Trincomalee to spend a couple of days relaxing on the coast. Before leaving the Habarana area we stopped off at a wood carving workshop.Large logs were stored outside waiting to be carved into masks, furniture, Buddha's or possibly elephants.
 Inside the open fronted workshop there was a display with examples of the types of wood that is used and our guide explained which were good for different uses including wood from Jackfruit, Ebony, Mara and Coconut trees
and the amazing 'rainbow' wood, the shavings of which change colour when combined with other substances such as lemon juice or just boiling water 










 
          


   





The resulting dye can then be used to paint masks and other decorative crafts
We watched one of the craftsmen carve an intricate elephant themed wall hanging
 Of course there was a salesroom full of wonderful pieces, it took a lot of choosing and some bargaining before HT found the 'perfect' elephant to take back home with him
 On our drive to Trinco we passed many stalls by the side of the road selling 'curd'. Made from buffalo's milk this is a traditional type of creamy yogurt served in clay pots 
We checked into our next hotel, the lovely Trinco Blue and spent the afternoon doing not very much other than enjoy the beautiful weather and sea views
 That evening Asoka took us on a brief tour of Trincomalee, starting with Ford Frederick. The fortress is still occupied by the Sri Lankan Military but we could wander around parts of the old garrison, including this cemetery containing graves dating back to the 1800s
They did not seem to be very well preserved
 Further up the hill and on a rocky outcrop is the Kandasamy Kovil, a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, one of the three gods responsible for the creation, upkeep and destruction of the world. Shiva's role is to destroy the universe in order to re-create it. When represented as a man his face, and sometimes his body, is painted blue-I've yet to find out why.
Below- the phallic statue represents the power and masculinity of Shiva
 As is usual with Hindu temples the outside is heavily decorated with colourful statues and images of gods and religious icons
 With the main temple at the centre many smaller shrines are dotted around. We ducked to pass through a small stone doorway carved through a wall of rock 
On the other side was a cliff top path and a frangipani tree draped with small wooden boxes, like cradles, tied on with pieces of sari, prayers left by women pleading to the gods for a baby
Every niche within the rock contained another shrine 
In one area there were more 'prayer offerings', coins wrapped in cloth were tied to lianas hanging down the rock
Below the sheer cliffs we saw lots of small fishing boats, it was by now early evening and the local fishermen were setting off for their night's work
 Each boat came close to the cliff face and stopped for a few minutes so the fishermen could pray to the gods in the temple above them.
 This daily ritual includes the symbolic washing of the boat before it's journey
 lighting incense
 and praying, presumably for a safe and productive night fishing
 Walking back to the car we were blessed with another beautiful Sri Lankan sunset
 The following day, our last full day together, we decided to do nothing except relax and sometimes  swim in the beautiful pool 
 I tried to blend into my surroundings in my towel-matching bikini!


Thoroughly rested I took a gentle stroll along the beach late in the afternoon and came across a river which led on to a village. The fishermen were starting to get their boats out for the night
 The river mouth became a narrow channel and they had to cut the engines to walk their boats through the shallow water with a rocky outcrop on the seaward side
Then clearing the shallows they were off to work for the night
 Our evening was a lot lazier. We managed to walk a short distance to a beach bar for supper. Some of the tables were suspended by rope from the ceiling, which was fun initially but made eating quite tricky, particularly when your son keeps pulling the table away just as you are trying to reach the plate!
The following day we said goodbye to beautiful Trincomalee and commenced the journey back home, HT back to the UK, Papa T and I to Singapore. Our flight from tiny China Bay Airport was really exciting, it was in a little Cessna Caravan plane 
With only room for 8 passengers, a pilot and co pilot. The co pilot had to squeeze in to present the brief safety talk
On our way back to Colombo we had great views of the countryside below us
 Not long after taking off we flew over Habarana and we could just spot Sigirya Rock sticking out prominently 
Just over an hour later we landed at Colombo airport, our very relaxed pilot was happy for HT to briefly have a seat in the cockpit
it was only once the pilot walked back to the airport did we notice he was bare foot, we wondered if he had flown the plane like that!
Asoka, who had driven back to Colombo whilst we stayed in Trinco, met us again at the airport and greeted us like long lost friends. He gave us a brief tour of the city, first pointing out Colombo's General Hospital. I wondered if this was the area where my niece who founded https://slv.global spends quite a bit of time when she works in Sri Lanka organising mental health placements for psychology students and graduates from around the world.
The very imposing Colombo Town Hall
One of the entrances to Virharamahadevi Park
and the new and yet to be completed; Lotus Tower. Due to be completed by the end of this year the tower is set, at 350m, to be the tallest in S.E. Asia
That evening we said goodbye to HT who caught the overnight flight back to the UK. Papa T and I had one night in a hotel overlooking Beira Lake before we too headed back home
This was our second trip to SriLanka and we left hoping to return and see other parts of this beautiful and varied country

Sri Lanka 2- Caves and more elephants

We were up early the following morning to try and beat the heat and drove to the Dambulla cave temples. Outside the main entrance devotees can buy beautiful flowers for offerings
The cave temples are up a steep hill 
at the top is a large plateau with an overhanging rock ledge housing the caves
Buddhist prayer flags fluttering in the wind sending the prayers upwards
The temples are thought to date back to the 1st century
There are five separate caves 
all contain amazing statues of Buddha and beautiful paintings on the rock walls

Over the centuries more and more images have been painted in the caves
so that almost every inch from floor to ceiling is decorated



At the bottom of the hill is a much more modern Buddhist temple with a giant golden statue on the top with a huge flashing neon sign below the statue

We stopped off for a brief visit to the local market, one of the largest wholesale markets in Sri Lanka 

by the end of the day a lot of this produce will be on sale in Colombo and around Sri Lanka
Types of long beans and pumpkins
Blowing his horn the ice-cream seller tries to tempt his customers to buy.
One stall seemed to trade in onions and garlic
We could identify most of the fruits and vegetables on sale but not these..
..we decided they must be 'snozcumbers', the favourite food of the BFG as told by Roald Dahl!
After lunch and a short rest (in which we were joined by two lovely and friendly local dogs) 
we were off for another afternoon's safari. This time we visited the nearby Minneriya National Park
 Initially we drove through quite thick jungle but were lucky to spot more Purple Faced Langurs
 and several monitor lizards searching for something tasty
We drove under a huge bees nest, we could hear the quiet hum of the hundreds, maybe thousands of bees 
 Our eagle eyed driver cleverly spotted a Crested Serpent-eagle on a low branch by a stream
 A bit further on a beautiful Indian peacock strolled passed
 The jungle can be a hard place to spot wildlife but we were lucky and just caught sight of a small group of Spotted Deer in the thicket
 As we came out on to the plain we came across a lone bull elephant, this chap, unlike the previous day's lone bull, seemed very calm and we watched him for a long while
Once onto the plain we got beautiful views of the ancient tank (reservoir) with some local cattle at the waters edge and the hills behind

Elephants were starting to move out of the forest and down to the water

The lake was huge, further on we saw a large herd of Water Buffalo
There were lots of birds as well including this pretty Indian Roller 
As he flew off we could see his electric blue feathers 
Not quite so eye catching but still very impressive was this Southern Coucal
Elephant foot prints in the sand
 Enjoying an evening sand bath was this lovely Little Bee Eater
By now, late afternoon/early evening, more and more elephants were appearing 

 After a long drink and time to play in the water this group then clambered out to continue grazing
 The sun was going down quite quickly so we started to head back but came across another large herd, with some very playful youngsters play fighting and pushing and shoving each other






 as the 'teenagers' played the older elephants kept a young baby elephant safely out of their way


 We just made it out of the park before it got really dark
We had been very lucky to have seen so many fabulous animals and enjoyed visiting these two small parks. There are several more parks in Sri Lanka we would love to visit, some of which are known for leopards but I suspect they will be much harder to see.