Mount Kinabalu Climb

After what seemed like weeks of planning, and hopefully enough training, the day arrived for AR and I to travel to Kota Kinabalu to begin our trek. We were collected from our hotel at 6.30 am and driven  for 2 hours to Mount Kinabalu National Park headquarters. Here we were registered and assigned a guide who would look after us for the next 2 days

Here we had a great view of Mount Kinabalu and it was our first chance to have a good look at the challenge ahead of us. The first thing that struck me was that it looked like it had snow on it-in fact the huge whitish area is the scar of newly exposed rock which is the result of the damage caused by the magnitude 6.0 earthquake that shook this mountain on June 5th last year. Sadly 18 people died on the mountain that day including 4 guides and 12 Singaporean school children

We filled up our water bottles and repacked our bags before setting off in glorious sunshine and fortunately a lovely cooling breeze

We passed through the entrance gates under the sign that says "Safe Climbing"

and after a briefly level path started climbing the first of the many, many steps that would take us to the summit. I had read that the route is an almost continuous staircase, sometimes the steps are rock, sometimes man made wooden steps, sometimes cut out soil steps, all pretty relentless.  

However we both felt very fortunate that we were only carrying light rucksacs with a few overnight things and warm clothes for the next day. A stream of porters gradually passed us as they carried huge loads-water, food and everything else needed to supply the huts at 3,500meters where the climbers stay the night before attempting the summit. 

The walk commences at Timpohon gate, a height of 1,866m and the Laban Rata Rest House, our overnight stop is at 3,272m. We would be ascending 1,400m that first day and to avoid altitude sickness walked slowly and at each of the rest shelters on the way spent 15-30 minutes to help our bodies adjust. This also gave us time to rehydrate and eat chocolate and snacks, we had brought quite a large selection with us!

I noticed that each rest hut had stretchers in the roof, I hoped we would not be requiring these. As we walked up we saw many of the previous days trekkers making their way down, some looked in considerable discomfort and were struggling to walk and bend their knees. Wilfred, our guide said about 20 people a month need carrying down as their legs or knees give up! 

At one of the huts as I opened my sac to get my packed lunch a family of ground squirrels suddenly appeared. They were obviously very used to trekkers and were not fearful of jumping onto the benches and even onto unattended bags looking for food

It was lovely to see many different plants and flowers, some familiar but many unknown to me, as we ascended through the different vegetation zones, starting in the lowland tropical rainforest with large trees, bamboos, palms, gingers and plenty of orchids (although none in flower sadly)

next into lower montane vegetation with its smaller trees, tree ferns and other ferns and flowers

and lots of wonderful pitcher plants. Kinabalu is the richest place in the world for the tropical pitcher plant, Nepenthes and Wilfred realising I was interested in plants took us off the main trail to search for two pitcher plants that only grow in the Kinabalu Park

From about 2200m we moved into the higher montane vegetation zone

with more stunted trees, their branches and trunks draped with lichen and mosses. There were lots of types of rhododendron, many in flower

and Schima brevifolia bushes

The other name for this zone is the cloud forest zone, here the mist and cloud rolled in and out 

At 3,300m we reached the sub alpine vegetation zone and a little higher up our overnight stop appeared out of the mist

We reached the Laban Rata hut just before 3pm and had time to shower and relax and chat with other trekkers. Most people seemed very happy although some were complaining of aching legs, I knew that we still had a long and tough way to go to reach the summit so wondered how they would fare

We had already been so lucky with the weather which had been dry, hot and sunny but with a cooling breeze throughout our walk up. Whilst resting on the verandah of the hut we enjoyed the last of the day's beautiful sunshine followed by the most spectacular sunset 

Meals were provided at the hut and supper started at 4.30pm in order to allow trekkers to get to bed early. AR and I were in a shared dorm and we were all in our bunks by 7pm with our rucksack's next to us, ready for the night climb 

Our alarms went off at 2am and a few minutes later we were downstairs eating "breakfast" which looked very similar to last night's supper of fried rice, noodles and baked beans. AR was reluctant to eat but I gave her strict instructions that she must to ensure that she had the energy for the climb.

Wilfred and the other guides were all ready and waiting, although Wilfred was playing on his phone again. The day before I had noticed that at each rest hut Wilfred immediately got out his phone and became engrossed in some game, I teased him that he must be playing Candy Crush and he looked surprised, I think I had guessed correctly

At 2.45 we set off using the light of our head torches to see where to step, although as we moved out of the vegetation zone onto the plateau the light from the full moon was almost enough on it's own

After a while the steps disappeared and we were on a steep rocky plateau with fixed ropes to pull ourselves up on. I tried not to think about what coming down this part would be like when we could actually see the drops below!

We reached the Sayat Sayat check point, (3,668m) the last check point on the route. You have to reach this check point before 5am to be allowed to go up to the summit, we were well inside the curfew time.

The altitude was beginning to take it's toll on some people and AR said she was feeling empty of energy and that her legs felt 'leaden'. I was lucky enough to be feeling really good but I knew exactly what she meant as I had experienced this horrible feeling a few years ago on the summit night ascending Mount Kilimanjaro. That time I declined my guides offer of Red Bull and suffered leaden legs all the way to the top. Red Bull is not a drink I ever normally drink but I had always wondered if I should have tried it that night on Kili, so this trip I had brought along 2 cans. It certainly did the trick and re-energised we continued on upwards

The pre dawn light was just starting to appear on the horizon as we made it to the summit

We were absolutely thrilled to get to the top- 4,095m, the highest mountain between the Himalayas and New Guinea and the 20th most prominent mountain in the World 

After having our photos taken we found a comfy place to sit a few feet below the summit and watched the sunrise. It was quite beautiful

We had the sun rising on one side of the mountain

whilst on the other side the sun cast a shadow of Mount Kinabalu with the moon sinking behind it

The view back down the plateau was fabulous as the sun started to light up some of the rocky tips

and other peaks and hills peaking above the clouds in the valley below

Once the sun was up we started down stopping off briefly at a small pool of water which reflected our images and the peak behind 

The clouds were clearing giving us great views of the valley floor

of course we also had a good view of the drop below us but using the ropes for stability and balance we were actually pleasantly surprised that it wasn't that difficult or too scary coming down the steepest sections

we were back at the hut by 8.15 where we had a huge breakfast, packed up our remaining belongings and then an hour later resumed the walk down to the park headquarters

As we got lower down we passed porters taking up that days supplies and as our legs were by now starting to complain we felt even more respect for these incredibly strong and stoic men and women who do this trek up and down most days 

 With tired, achey legs and stiff knees but very happy hearts we made it to the end of the trek and collected our certificates

Once back in KK we found the ferry point and were whisked off in a small speed boat at high speed which when the boat rolled and crashed through the large waves felt more dangerous than the climb had ever done! However we landed safely at Gaya Island where we had two nights relaxing and recovering, it was bliss. It also gave us time to reflect on our climb and contemplate what the next adventure might be. I haven't decided yet but have a few ideas-once my achy legs have fully recovered!

Off the tourist track in Western Java

Chinese New Year gave rise to a four day weekend last week, we originally planned on staying in Singapore but rather late in the day changed our minds. Our options as to where to go were fairly limited as many flights and hotels were fully booked or too expensive but strangely flights to Jakarta were not only available but inexpensive!  It's not a popular 'holiday' destination and the recent bomb attack may have put lots of people off-so we booked our flights and found a hotel on the west coast

It took 3 hours to drive the 100kms from Jakata Airport to Anyer beach as for the first hour we were stuck in the infamous Jakarta traffic. It was a little worrying as we neared our destination when we passed through an enormous industrial estate with huge steel and chemical works. By the time we arrived at the hotel it was dark but when we woke the next morning we were pleased to see that the hotel was not only new, clean and lovely but...

we had the most amazing view of the volcanic island of Krakatoa

We had hoped to take a boat trip to see Krakatoa but it was still monsoon season and the weather was  unpredictable with sudden thunder storms causing very rough seas so we had to content ourselves with just gazing at it in the distance 

Krakatoa erupted in spectacular fashion in the 1880's causing huge tsunami's killing more than 36,000 people and in the process blew itself apart so that only 1 third of the original volcano remains. It has had minor eruptions since then with the most recent one being in 2014. I was secretly hoping that Krakatoa might have a little eruption whilst we were there, it would have been amazing to have seen a trickle of lava flowing out!

As well as volcanic eruptions, earthquakes occasionally occur in this part of the world and there was an information leaflet in our room as to what to do if one happened, our bed even had a small carpeted area marking out the 'triangle of life'! 

However all was calm throughout our stay and we had plenty of time to relax, swim, read books and enjoy the views- which from the roof top bar were particularly good not only of Krakatoa but Sumatra as well

particularly when the sun set

The area that we stayed in is a popular weekend destination for Jakartan's and is largely muslim. The women were all modestly dressed with their bodies, arms and legs fully covered and headscarves on-even when swimming in the sea or hotel pool. I was very glad I had brought a swimsuit with me not just a bikini! 

 The next morning we asked if the hotel could arrange for a taxi to take us out to explore the area but were told that no taxis in the village so we headed out for a walk instead. There was a small stall selling coconuts, durian fruit and some bunches of bean looking vegetables that I hadn't come across before. The stall holders didn't speak english but I've since found out they were Petai or Stink beans, so called apparently as they have a strong smell which lingers in the mouth and body plus causes 'wind'!

Further on we came across some kids playing 

and cockerels fighting

That evening the hotel hosted a Chinese New Year's Eve buffet and the restaurant was decorated with red lanterns and dragons

 the kitchen was behind a glass window and it you could see the chefs prepare all the delicious food

they spent a long time preparing the brilliantly crafted centre piece which obviously had as it's theme "Year of the Monkey"

 That evening we watched another beautiful sunset this time from the beach

 We took another walk the next day and headed inland, first coming across a sort of 'road toll' where motorists are encouraged to give a donation for the building of a new mosque 

 soon we came across rice paddies and watched 

 as this lady planted young plants into the gaps

 and this lady was scattering fertiliser onto the crop

 We were the only non asians about and many of the locals seemed curious and stared at us, a few asked where we were going and laughed good naturally when we said 'just walking'.

As we retraced our route past the rice paddies two young women approached us and rather shyly indicated if we would like to come to their home for a drink, we of course accepted and were introduced to their father, brother and a young girl (we never quite worked out if she was their younger sister or one of their daughter's). We only had about 4 or 5 words of Indonesian and the women only had a little more english so there wasn't much conversation but there was lots of miming, laughing and giggling as we sipped our very hot and sugary black coffee. We understood that one of the women was a teacher, the other a tax officer but we didn't find out what the men did. They were so kind and very keen to take several photos of us all together 

They showed their tanks full of fish, presumably they sell the fish locally for eating

That night we had one last lovely sunset and view of Krakatoa

The next day it was time to leave but not before trying the Indonesian speciality of satay, this time sticks of chicken with satay sauce and a very spicy chilli sauce

 This weekend we had visited a different part of Java than we had seen on our previous visit to Yogyakarta and Borobudur. Not too many Westerner's visit Anyer possibly as there really isn't much to do there but it was perfect for a few days relaxing and we found it interesting to see and we met some friendly local people

Waiting at the airport for our flight back to Singapore we had plenty of time to browse the shops ( having allowed extra time for the taxi ride back to Jakarta in case we got stuck in traffic we of course arrived in very quick time), there was a shop with lovely Indonesian handicrafts, I particularly liked these wooden masks 

but instead bought a dragon...

 which opens up into a game board. I recognised the game as mancala and used to play it as a child. Doing a bit of research when I got home the game is called congklat in Indonesia and here is considered a 'girl's game'. 

Since arriving in Singapore I have been collecting the bright red seeds from the saga tree when ever I see them, just because they are so pretty, now I have a good use for them - they can be the playing pieces for this game.

Training for Mount Kinabalu

Those that know me well know that I love mountains and open spaces so coming to live in Singapore with it's highest hill being a rather titchy 163m (540ft) would be a bit of a challenge for me. However I like a good challenge, particularly ones that involve mountains, fabulous views and walking and of course it didn't take long to find out that the Mount Kinabalu on the island of Borneo is not very far away and a very 'do-able' challenge.

Mount Kinabalu is 4095m (13,500 ft),although it is frequently referred to as South East Asia's highest mountain, it is actually only the 5th highest, with Hkakabo Razi in Myanmar at 5881m being the highest. Mt K is a 'trekkers' mountain, therefore no serious mountain climbing skills are required just a degree of fitness and determination-so I'm told.

Anyway soon after arriving in Singapore I decided that I would attempt to climb Mount Kinabalu at some point and started asking around to see if others would like to join me, my friend AR, being a fellow lover of hill walking and mountains readily accepted and a few months ago we booked our trip.

All very exciting but then the next challenge arose-how to get fit for a mountain climb when you live in an almost pancake flat country that has only a few short off road trails? I decided to adopt similar fitness training that I had used whilst getting fit for climbing Mount Kilimanjaro in 2012, that is to do lots of power walking i.e. walk as fast as possible for 1-3 hours. 

We live very close to the Green Corridor-the disused rail way line which passes close by to Bukit Timah Nature Reserve where the highest point in Singapore can be found-Bukit Timah Hill. So a few times recently I've walked from our condo, along the Green Corridor and up the hill then back again, a round trip of 17km (10.5miles). It's a hot and sweaty walk but that should be good training as the first day on Mt K will be a hot and sweaty walk!

 This is about the only place in Singapore where I feel justified in wearing proper walking boots!

 One of the old bridges and some of the railway track has been left

 Occasional encounters with monitor lizards, snakes, moor hens and birds add interest to the route  

 Encounters with monkeys are not so enjoyable although seeing them from a distance is always fun

In spite of my dislike of gyms and indoor exercise I have also started using the gym in our condo, going on the cross trainer and intermittently putting it on the steepest gradient. I haven't become any keener on gyms but hope this will stand me in good stead.

But I was worried that I was not getting enough 'climbing' practice so a few weeks ago introduced stair climbing to my fitness regime. This entails climbing up and down the stairs in the emergency stairwell and for almost the first time I have been grateful to live in a condo that has 37floors, an ideal training ground. I started with 1 complete set and have built up to 3 sets -so that is walking up to 37th floor and down to the bottom three times, in total 111 floors! It is exceedingly dull as well as inducing very achey calf muscles and of course I never gain any true height so have no opportunity to acclimatise to high altitude. A local and super-fit friend who has twice completed the "vertical marathon" advised me to vary my steps therefore I now do 5 floors at a run (slowly), 5 floors at a walk, 5 floors with 2 steps per tread then 5 floors of wide treads per step. So far only I've only met 1 person whilst doing my stair training which is just as well as I must look slightly odd as I puff my way up!

 I hope that all this training will be enough to help me get to the top of Mount Kinabalu, I will find out soon as this time next week AR and I head off to Kota Kinabalu to start our adventure